A personal record by Terry Marshall.

Introduction.

During my visit to the Kern Valley Biofest in the spring of 2000 (Essex Birds Summer 2002), I learned that Friends of the Kern Valley Preserve organised overseas visits to benefit Audubon - California's Friends of the Kern River Preserve and the Southern Sierra Research Station including Costa Rica, a country with over 800 recorded species and with 20% of its land some kind of reserve or National Park.

So it was that on 3 January,2003, I found myself flying out to San Jose. San Jose is situated in the Central Valley of Costa Rica, an area with the best climate in the world according to the United Nations.

We were to visit five locations and sample a wide variety of habitats at each location. Habitats were to include dry tropical forest, mangrove swamps, high mountain and elfin forest, lowland Pacific-slope forest, lowland Atlantic-slope forest and mid-elevation tropical rainforest.

The trip was geared to get to know each area we visited and see a wide diversity of areas of the country, yet go at a slow pace that it doesnt all become a blur. There was time off most afternoons to sit by the pool (or river), read, write or explore on our own. Nevertheless, well over 300 species of birds was expected as well as monkeys, armadillos and sloths.

Leaders

The two leaders of the trip were Murrelet Halterman, Project Director with the Southern Sierra Research Station and Bob Barnes, Outreach Director for Audubon-Californias 1775+-acre Kern River Preserve.

Administration & Organisation 

Alberto Vargas, General Manager, Vitratur S.A, Tour Operator & Travel Agency, P.O. Box 1528 - 3000, Heredia, CR. Tel (506) 265 77 79. Cell (506) 385 01 85. E-mail, .

Alberto had made all the arrangements on behalf of Murrelet. He also drove the coach during the trip. He is an expert driver and also a keen birdwatcher. He seems to know everyone in Costa Rica. He would always be telephoning ahead to ensure that all the necessary arrangements had been made, usually to notify the accommodation that we were running late! And, of particular importance, he was also instrumental in arranging early morning coffee. He became a friend of everyone on the trip.

He and his company can arrange any tour for any reason. He will provide or book airport and tour transport, book accommodation, restaurants, bird guides, tour guides etc. A first class service is guaranteed.

The coach used on this tour was an air-conditioned Toyota. It was capable of seating about 24 passengers in comfort. With our complement, there was always space, even when loaded with luggage and provisions.

His favourite saying as we enjoyed a particularly nice meal, witnessed a good bird or admired the wonderful scenery was "I hate this job"!

Food.

Everywhere we went the food was first class. It was well prepared, well presented, plentiful and varied.

The Gallo Pinto went down very well with the Americans but I think the Rice Pudding deserved top spot.

Health

Everywhere we went the tap water was potable and, because of the quality of the water, caused very few problems. The accommodations also provided huge bottles of water from which one could fill canisters each day.

Because of my asthma, I anticipated some difficulties with the high elevations of 10,000 feet around San Gerardo de Dota but I need not have worried as I felt no effects.

The Tour.

January 3 - On my way to San Jose.

I left Heathrow at 0940 heading for Miami where we were due to land 9 hours later for a two and a half hours connecting flight to Juan Santamaria International Airport, San Jose.

I was met by a driver who delivered me to La Casa que Canta for my first night.

La Casa que Canta. Tel:(506)771-4582 Fax: (506)771-8841
Email:[email protected]

La Casa que Canta is a small property of slightly over 2 hectares in Barrio Jesus, a quiet and secure part of Santa Barbara de Heredia, just 20 minutes from the airport. There is a panoramic view over San Jose to the mountains on the southern side of the Central Valley.

It is a home to more than 70 species of birds and maintains a wide variety of fruit trees, orchids, ornamental plants and flowers.

January 4 - San Jose to the Ensenada Lodge.

0530 - 0730 La Casa que Canta.

The birding day began at 0530, fittingly, with a Clay-colored Robin, the national bird of Costa Rica and one of the five species that I was to see every day. Shortly after, I saw my first hummingbird of the trip, a Rufous-tailed Hummingbird and then a House Wren. Breakfast was served at 0630 followed by more birding when I added Turkey and Black Vultures (two more of the species that I was to see every day in all habitats), Blue-crowned Motmot, Rufus-collared Sparrow, Blue-and-white Swallow and Cattle Egret.

A feeding flock descended on a fruiting tree and I was able to pick out Masked Tityra and Yellow-bellied Elaenia.

0730 - 1300 To the airport and La Ensenada Lodge.

Murrelet, Bob and Alberto arrived with the coach at 0730 and we made our way to the airport to await the arrival of the last contingent from California. When they had arrived, and starting with the ubiquitous Great-tailed Grackles at the airport, we birded our way to the Ensenada Lodge in the dry, northwest, Guanacaste province. Along the way we noted Feral Pigeon, Great Kiskadee and Tropical Kingbird, the fourth bird that I was to see every day.

As we motored along, Murrelet said a few words about the country and what to expect. Three points stuck in my mind.

First, the Spanish word "tranquilo". When something went wrong, we were to say to ourselves, tranquilo, and given time, the wrong would be put right. In practice, nothing went wrong and we had to invent situations to practice our Spanish.

The second was about Costa Rica and it's people. 98% were literate and a very high proportion "middle class". We saw neither homeless people nor any beggars. I noticed only two areas of shanty dwellings, one outside San Jose and the second on the edge of Cartago.

The third was what to do with toilet paper after use!

About an hour out of San Jose, we stopped for refreshments. Some fruiting trees behind the caf provided a further insight into what birding Costa Rica was going to be like. Here we added Northern Oriole, Red-legged Honeycreeper, Hoffmann's Woodpecker, Long-tailed Hermit and Blue-gray and Summer Tanagers and Tennessee Warbler, the fifth and final bird that I was to see every day. Out the front of the caf, a Gray Hawk gave good views as it glided past.

During the next three hours we made several stops as birds were seen. We added Scissor-tailed Flycatcher, Wood Stork, Inca Dove, Groove-billed Ani, Brown-crested Flycatcher, Rufus-naped Wren and Striped-headed Sparrow. A Chestnut-mandibled Toucan performed a fly-past just before we arrived at the Lodge.

La Ensenada Lodge (506)228-6653, (506)289-6653, fax (506)289-5281.

The La Ensenada Lodge is set in an 865-acre (350-ha) property and registered as a private wildlife refuge some 87 miles (140 km) NW of San Jos, on the mainland side of the Gulf of Nicoya, north of Punta Morales.

It is a delightful surprise at the end of a dirt road through rural landscapes. The Guests can enjoy water- and land-based birds more than 140 species, including White Ibis, Tricolored Heron, Purple Gallinule, Double-striped Thick-knee, parrots, parakeets, bellbirds, trogons and kingfishers. With luck, you might see a Jabiru.

Animals that can be seen include crocodiles, coyotes, howlers and white-faced monkeys, sloths, agoutis and iguanas.

Freshwater and saltwater lagoons add to mangrove, river and forest habitats.

1300 - 1530 Time to relax.

After lunch at the Lodge, we relaxed after the journey, some taking advantage of the swimming pool.

1530 - 1800 Birding the Grounds of La Ensenada.

We met again at 1530 to bird the grounds and surrounding area.

We began by walking in the direction of the Gulf of Nicoya and added Crested Caracara, Mangrove Swallow, Zone-tailed Hawk, Social Flycatcher, Orchard Oriole, Magnificent Frigatebird, Brown Pelican, Olivaceous Cormorant and Great White Egret.

Looking down to the boat jetty, we added Marbled Godwit, Whimbrel, Spotted Sandpiper and Black-bellied Plover.

Finally, then walking to the south, we saw Red-billed Pigeon, Orange-fronted and Orange-chinned Parakeets, White-fronted Parrot, Ruby-throated Hummingbird, Wilson's Warbler, Bronzed Cowbird, Blue Grosbeak and Blue-black Grassquit. We also saw for the first time a Scrub Euphonia, one of my favourites that I never tired of seeing. We could hear the Three-wattled Bellbird calling and several in the group were rewarded with a brief sighting but I missed the bird.

As we returned to the Lodge and dinner, the sun was setting behind the mountains in the west. A wonderful rose-red and orange panorama eliciting many oooh's and aaahhh's that were to be repeated very many times over the next two weeks as we experienced the birds, food and sights.

I had opened my account with 54 species, not surprisingly, the highest daily new bird count.

January 5 - All day birding at Ensenada Lodge.

0530 - 0700 From the Lodge to the Farm.

We met for coffee at first light to walk the road to the farm before breakfast. We were joined at coffee by the magnificent White-throated Magpie-jay.

In the meadow at the side of the track we listened to and then saw the Eastern Meadowlark and watched as a Yellow-headed Caracara flew over.

Around the corner and leading to the farm we saw Common Ground-dove, White-winged and White-tipped Doves.

In the trees around the farm buildings we noted Spotted-breasted Oriole, Rose-throated Becard, Ruddy-breasted Seedeater and Yellow Warbler. I missed the Rose-breasted Grosbeak.

Over the road just beyond the farm we saw hundreds of hawking birds that included White-collared Swift, Barn and Northern and Southern Rough-winged Swallows. Others also added Black Swift.

On our way back for breakfast, we had amazing views of another top bird, the Turquoise-browed Motmot.

0830 - 1200 The Salinas and the Laguna.

We boarded the coach for the short ride to the track leading to the Laguna. As we stopped, a coyote walked away from us.

Along this track we saw Northern Jacana and young on a pond and a Black-headed Trogan in the tree at the side of the pond. Here we saw our first Howler Monkeys.

Walking on we added White-lored Gnatcatcher, Steely-vented Hummingbird, Squirrel Cuckoo and Streak-backed Oriole.

Alberto was the only one to see a Lesser Ground-cuckoo.

At the entrance to the Salinas we watched Cinnamon Hummingbird, Mangrove Black-Hawk, Panama Flycatcher and Green-breasted Mango.

On the Salinas were White Ibis, Little Blue Heron, Fork-tailed Emerald, Roseate Spoonbill, Western and Least Sandpipers, Black-necked Stilt, Lesser and Greater Yellowlegs and Wilson's Plover.

Back at the entrance, we watched a female White-collared Seedeater and an Osprey flew overhead.

At the Laguna, a group of birds made themselves scarce as we approached but I felt sure that they were Spotted-bellied Bobwhite. Alberto spotted a Boat-billed Heron just a few feet from the viewing platform but only a few saw it before we disturbed it. Over the Laguna were more Ospreys and a Wood Stork. Tricolored Heron, Willet and Anhinga were also added here.

1345 - 1800 The Bellbird Trail.

The target for this afternoon was the Bellbird which we could again hear calling and, as we closed in, it was evident that more than one bird was calling.

Eventually, we saw a Three-wattled Bellbird perched in the top most branches of a large tree. Then the first of several magical moments during the trip. The bird that we were watching flew to another tree close by to join another Bellbird. These two birds were then joined by a Scissor-tailed Flycatcher and a Scrub Euphonia and they were all visible together in the 'scope. An amazing picture. We were returning to the lodge as night fell when we saw several Lesser Nighthawk making their early rounds.

We again experienced the setting of the sun at the end of a day during which I saw 79 species of which 44 were new for the trip.

January 6 - Ensenada Lodge and the Mangrove Swamps.

0500 - 0600 Owl Walk.

The birding today started just after 0500. We had heard Ferruginous Pygmy-owl and Pacific Screech-owl during the night before (and again last night) and decided that we should try for them before pre-breakfast birding. Although we continued to hear the Ferruginous Pygmy-owl, we failed to find it.

0630 - 0730 From the Lodge to the Farm.

We met again at 0630 for a walk to the farm with the Double-striped Thick-knees the target bird. The first new bird to be found was the Melodious Blackbird, a bird that is gradually extending its range south from Nicaragua. Ironically, the next bird to be seen was a Ferruginous Pygmy-owl that allowed excellent 'scope opportunities before flying off.

Search as we might, we failed to see the Double-striped Thick-knees, as indeed was the case several times during the day. A Lineated Woodpecker was something of a consolation.

0800 - 1000 Boat ride in the Mangrove Swamps.

After breakfast a boating trip to the mangrove swamps had been arranged. We first encountered seabirds on a mudflat and added Laughing Gull, Black Skimmer and Sandwich and Royal Terns. Moving into the mangroves, accompanied by Flying Fish, we added Green Heron, Semipalmated Sandpiper, Semipalmated Plover, Ruddy Turnstone, Snowy Egret, Great Blue Heron and a Belted Kingfisher repeatedly diving for fish. Overhead, we watched Gray-headed Kite and Short-tailed Hawk.

As we emerged back into the estuary, I was surprised to see an American Oystercatcher flying along side.

A Ring-billed Gull was also called.

On our return to the landing strip we found that the tide had receded to such an extent that it made it impossible to land. Brave souls helped to pull the boat against some rocks for others to step ashore. During the walk back to the Lodge along the shore, some enjoyed a happy stop and were rewarded with a Mangrove Vireo.

1030 - 1300 Walking the road to the Laguna.

A short break and on the coach at 1030 for a walk towards the Laguna. A very good spot by Murrelet was a Roadside Hawk. Murrelet then saw the group of Spotted-bellied Bobwhite to confirm my sighting of the previous afternoon. We also added Yellow-olive Flycatcher.

1545 - 1800 The Laguna.

At 1545 we met up again and returned to the Laguna to search again for the Boat-billed Heron. Today a Green Kingfisher perched on the viewing platform greeted us. Murrelet went in search of the heron and soon called to say that she had located one. Try as I might, I could not detect it with my naked eye but everyone had good views through the telescope. How Murrelet detected the bird in the first place was voted the most difficult sighting of the trip. On the Laguna, Common Moorhen, Blue-winged Teal, Black-bellied Whistling-duck and Common Tody-flycatcher were easier to find and see.

Then another magical moment as the light was fading. We watched two adult and a juvenile White Ibis, a Black-bellied Whistling-duck, adult and young Northern Jacana, a Black-necked Stilt, a Little Blue Heron and a Spotted Sandpiper all feeding together as a crocodile glided past not two feet from them. All in one image through the 'scope.

A short distance away on the bank was another crocodile that seemed to be testing the limits of his jaw opening before sliding down the bank and into the water.

To rub salt into the wounds of those that rose early for the owl walk, another Ferruginous Pygmy-owl was seen after dinner.

The group bird count for the day was 100 birds seen or heard. My tally was 90 birds seen of which 24 were new.

January 7 - Ensenada Lodge in the morning and then drive south to Punta Leona, near Carara Biological Reserve.

0530 - 0730 The road to, and, the Salinas.

An 0530 start this morning to bird once more the road to and the Salinas.

We had a good start with a Violaceous Trogon and a Ruddy Ground-dove, but the star bird was a Painted Bunting. On the Salinas we added Dunlin, a rare bird for Costa Rica, and a Short-billed Dowitcher.

On the return journey we scanned a wire full of hirundines and added our only sighting of Cliff Swallow.

0900 - 1230 To Punta Leona.

Back for breakfast and packing and we were on the road to Punta Leona by 0900. After a short ice-cream break and "happy" stops, we entered the five star complex just after mid-day. Our rooms were not yet ready so we while we waited, we ate another wonderful lunch and admired the bats clinging to the ceiling and walls of the restaurant.

Punta Leona

Punta Leona, just ninety minutes from San Jose by car, is surrounded by 750 acres of lush tropical rainforest and again a registered private wildlife reserve rich in plant and animal life. Along side are pristine white sand and gold sand beaches and the deep blue waters of the Pacific. "You will be swept away by the natural beauty experienced at our private tropical rain forest and beach resort" says the literature and I could not argue.

Each morning we would wake up to the sounds of some of the over 330 exotic bird species living in the area amongst giant tropical trees and hundreds of fascinating plant species.

In the grounds you may spot such fauna as white faced monkeys, iguanas, short nosed coatis, toucans and the brilliant Scarlet Macaw, announcing their arrival with awesome high pitched calls.

1530 - 1800 Birding the Grounds.

We arranged to meet again at 1530 to bird some of the grounds of the country club. We soon heard and then saw Brown Jay and soon afterwards, three Chestnut-mandibled Toucans.

Walking two short trails, we added Streaked Flycatcher, Yellow-throated Vireo, Chestnut-sided Warbler, Black-crowned Tityra and Blue-throated Goldentail.

We also experienced for the first time the leaf-cutter ants in action. Although I had seem them before, it was still fascinating to watch as they unerringly made their way to and from the unfortunate plant to their home.

A total of 86 birds seen of which 12 were new.

January 8 - Carara Biological Reserve.

0530 - 1300 The Tarcoles Bridge and Carara.

By 0545 and at first light we were already at the bridge over the Rio Tarcoles counting the 19 crocodiles on view. The target bird, the Scarlet Macaw, duly gave not very good views as first one pair and then a second pair flew overhead. As we waited, we were getting our first look at Variable Seedeater, Rufous-breasted Wren, Barred Antshrike, Gray-breasted Martin and Cherrie's Tanager.

Alberto again came up trumps when he brought us coffee and fruit - bless him.

We then drove back a mile or so to one of the entrances to the famous 11,600-acre Carara Biological Reserve. This is an important Pacific lowland forest reserve where South American tropical forest meets with Central American dry lowland forest.

5457 miles from home at a reading of 39 degrees true north I ate a picnic breakfast whilst birding. We soon saw a Lesser Greenlet and then one of the birds of the trip, a young White-whiskered Puffbird. Black-throated Trogon was the next to be seen. The last bird to be seen during breakfast was the difficult to pronounce, Prothonotary Warbler.

We then walked very slowly along the trail and in the next three and a half hours, we covered just 1000 yards with lots of new birds. Purple-crowned Fairy, Black-hooded Antshrike, Dusky Antbird, Slate-headed Tody-flycatcher, Black-and-white Warbler, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Rufous-and-white Wren, Long-billed Starthroat, Dusky-capped Flycatcher, White-lined and White-shouldered Tanager, Streaked-headed Woodcreeper, Buff-throated Saltator, Greenish Elaenia, Rufous Piha, Dotted-winged Antwren, Northern Bentbill, Chestnut-backed Antbird, White-winged Becard and Tropical Gnatcatcher.

A German birdwatcher let us know that there were Royal Flycatchers up ahead but we failed to find them.

We also heard Great Tinamou, Pale-billed Woodpecker and Long-billed Gnatwren.

And then Alberto did it again. From nowhere he had obtained fresh pineapple and water-melon. Absolutely wonderful.

The next stop was a little way along the road in the direction of Punta Leona. Here we called in at a Manakin lek. After first getting lost and secondly negotiating yet another leaf-cutter ant trail, we watched as Orange-collared Manakins (another cracker) performed for the ladies.

1500 - 1800 The Rio Tarcoles Estuary.

Back to the Club for another sumptuous meal before meeting up again at the coach at 1500 for a ride to the Rio Tarcoles estuary.

Just before arriving there, we passed a small pool where we watched a 10 foot Caiman thrashing about to tear apart a large fish that had wandered too close to waiting jaws. A wonderful piece of natural history.

Arriving at the estuary, we were greeted by four children who were delighted to show us a roosting Pacific Screech-owl. On the estuary, we had excellent views of close Yellow-crowned Night-heron and, further away on a sand bar, Sanderling.

It was another of those moments as, in fading light, we watched about 2000 Pelicans coming in to roost in the trees opposite.

As we drove away, we had a close encounter with two Red-lored Parrots on a dead tree.

Today, out of my highest day of 101 species, we had seen 30 new species, including 17 that we would not see again.

January 9 - Morning at Punta Leona to San Gerardo de Dota.

0600 -1030 Birding the grounds and breakfast.

The pre-breakfast walk began well with the arrival of six large and noisy Gray-headed Chachalaca that gave great 'scope views. The Barred Woodcreeper and Red-crowned Woodpecker were new for the trip. As we made our way to breakfast we watched six Toucans and the wonderful Summer Tanager.

Immediately after breakfast we watched three Fiery-billed Aracari and then a Plain Xenops. The Blue Morpho butterflies were a bonus.

1030 - 1845 Drive to San Gerardo de Dota via Orisini and Alberto's house.

En route to San Gerardo de Dota and the Cerro de la Muerta we passed through Orotina where we stopped in the town square to view a pair of Black-and-white Owls resident there. Two two-toed sloths were a bonus.

The next stop was Alberto's house. He and his wife had invited us for lunch. Yet another great meal and perhaps the place that the secondary title for the tour was coined, "Eating our way through Costa Rica". A Cooper's Hawk obliged during coffee.

As we passed through San Jose, we recorded a hovering White-tailed Kite.

During the day we also heard Gray-necked Wood-rail and Red-capped Manakin.

As we neared our destination, climbing steadily higher, we drove into cloud. Not too much of a surprise as this is cloud forest habitat. If the cloud persisted, it would make birding very difficult.

On this "non-birding" day, I still managed to see 8 new birds out of a daily list of 53. 

La Cabinas Quetzal

This proved to be another family run business with bungalows set between the road and the Savegre River, in San Gerardo de Dota.

January 10 - The Savegre Valley.

0600 - 0700 Birding the 100 yards from the cabins to breakfast.

Fortunately, we awoke to a day of clear blue skies, conditions that we would enjoy for the next three days.

We gathered in front of the cabins. In the grounds we were surrounded by shrubs and bushes. Across the road were flowering bushes and an orchard. We were soon seeing new birds including the hummingbirds Scintillant Hummingbird, Gray-tailed Mountain-gem and Green Violet-ear but also Slaty Flower-piercer and Black-throated Green Warbler. In the bushes were Sooty-capped Bush-tanager and Large-footed Finch.The orchard held a brilliant Flame-colored Tanager and On the wires were Boat-billed Flycatcher.A flock of about 60 Band-tailed Pigeons flew overhead. On the river we saw Louisiana Waterthrush. On the campground on the other side of the river were Black Phoebe and Acorn Woodpecker.

0800 - 1230 Top of the Road and Down again.

We boarded the coach at an altitude of 7550 feet for a ride back up the hill to the main road to an altitude of 9972 feet. Two participants carried GPS devices!

As we climbed the 2000 feet or so, our first stop was to look at a perched Ruddy Pigeon. Soon after we were 'scoping the grand design of our first Long-tailed Silky Flycatcher.

At the top we started a slow walk down and soon added Black-capped Flycatcher, Black-billed Nightingale-thrush, Volcano Junco, Sooty Robin, Volcano Hummingbird and Mountain Elaenia.

Using the coach again, we dropped down several hundred feet and watched another set of birds. We had good views of the gorgeous Flame-throated Warbler, Magnificent Hummingbird and Black-headed Tody-flycatcher and watched a Red-tailed Hawk soaring above.

1500 - 1800 Walk down to San Gerardo.

We met again at 1500 to walk the three km to the "centre" of San Gerado and the Savegre Hotel de Montana.

As we gathered, we saw a pretty Yellow-faced Grassquit and Mountain Robin in the orchard. Walking down the valley proved very quiet save for some very angry Gray-breasted Wood-wren.

At the hotel, we enjoyed the hummingbirds at the feeders. Lots of them and a number of species but nothing new. Others saw a Yellow-bellied Siskin.

At 36, today was the lowest tally. However, 28 were new.

January 11 Hunting the Quetzal and around San Gerado.

0600 - 0730 Hunting the Quetzal.

Our first new sighting was a Torrent Tyrannulet on the rocks below the Cabinas while waiting for Walter our guide. He immediately spotted a Golden-browed Chlorophonia but I do not think that anyone else managed to pick it out.

A short walk away and a pair of Resplendent Quetzal provided stunning 'scope views. Yet another amazing bird. These birds favour the Avocado Tree, so named because its fruit resemble miniature avocados. Find a fruiting tree and find the bird! A second tree held a second male that we watched for some time, hoping that it would fly. Ellene had seen the bird before but not in flight. As she turned to admire the magnificent view across and down the valley, the bird flew 100 yards across open ground. By the time Ellene had responded to the many ooh's, it was too late. What a shame! Not really because five minutes later it returned to the tree giving everyone stunning views.

0830 - 1200 A guided Walk.

Walter joined us for breakfast and then guided us a short distance down the road and onto his land. During this time we added Spotted-crowned Woodcreeper, Tufted Flycatcher, Dark Peewee, Yellow-thighed Finch and Yellow-winged Vireo.

1500 -1800 Another walk on the Road.

Another coach-ride up the valley but on the subsequent walks we saw very little. However, we did finish with more good views of the Torrent Tyrannulet.

Another quality day with just 39 birds, 7 of which were new.

January 12 - San Gerado and the Drive to the Kiri Lodge in the Central Valley.

0600 - 0730 Early morning walk.

This morning we retraced our steps over the ground that Walter had guided us the day before. Then, several of the group had missed several birds and this was a second chance to find and see them. We had also missed the Collared Redstart the day before.

We began well by seeing Philadelphia Vireo, Golden-winged Warbler and Common Bush-tanager. These were all seen the day before but not by me!

Then we had wonderful views of the delightful Golden-browed Chlorophonia, the species that Walter had tried to get us on to yesterday.

We also had tremendous views of the stunning Collared Redstart.

The coach picked us up at 0730 and took us to the waiting breakfast.

0900 - 1100 Driving and birding the Savegre valley.

We boarded the coach again at 0900 for a last walk in this wonderful valley.

We were rewarded with first, the unusual Timberline Wren and then a Ruddy Treerunner.

1100 - 1500 To Kiri Lodge via Cartago. Called in at pond next to Lankester Gardens.

By 1100 we were once more on the coach, this time heading for our next overnight at the Kiri Lodge.

On route we stopped first at a supermarket for supplies and an ice cream. As we returned to the coach, a Black-and-white Hawk-eagle flew overhead.

The next stop was just outside San Jose at a pool that is part of the Lankester gardens. Here we added American Coot and Lesser Scaup and saw the Bronzed Cowbird as it should be seen, foraging among the hooves of cattle.

As we drove around Cartago, we had fleeting views of a Montezuma Oropendola. Our leaders new better than to chase them for better views!

As we neared Kiri, two White-crowned Parrots were seen high in a tree.

1500 - 1800 At the Kiri Lodge.

We arrived at the Kiri Lodge in a heavy mist and, not surprisingly, by 1900 it was raining heavily. Nevertheless, we had a hot hour at the Kiri Lodge feeders and walking the approach road.

During this hour we saw Passerini's Tanager, Silver-throated Tanager, Palm Tanager, Crimson-collared Tanager, Bananaquit, Bay-headed Tanager, Green Thorntail, a female Blackburnian Warbler and Yellow-throated Brush-finch.

Quantity again today with 67 birds of which 21 were new.

Kiri Mountain Lodge, Tapanti, 165-7100 Paraiso, CARTAGO, CR.

The Lodge is situated one mile outside of the mid-elevation Atlantic-slope habitat, near the small town of Orosi, in the coffee-growing hills above San Jose and boasts the highest average rainfall in Costa Rica, 800 inches each year.

The Lodge is set in 123 acres located adjacent to the Tapanti National Park in the Orosi valley, 50 km from San Jose. "Your home in the middle of paradise" explains the literature.

The imposing primary rainforest of the Tapanti National park forms a habitat for the Resplendent Quetzal, Humming Birds, Tanagers, Guans, hawks, Eagles and more than 260 other bird species.

January 13 - Parque Nacional Tapanti.

0500 - 1200 Tapanti.

We rose early this morning to be at the gates of the Parque Nacional Tapanti when the parque opened at 0700. This upper montane cloud forest preserve extends over 11,600 acres and boasts 211 residing species.

We enjoyed coffee at 0500 before we boarded the coach at 0530 for a good picnic breakfast at the gate at 0600.

As we drove to the parque we saw a Black Guan in a tree but it did not remain too long when the coach came to a quick halt.

As we enjoyed our picnic breakfast, we also enjoyed a Little Hermit and White-bellied Mountain-gem. We then had great views of yet another trogon by the visitor centre, the Collared Trogon,

Just before 0700 we moved into the parque and were soon seeing different birds. We ticked Green Hermit, Green-crowned Brilliant, Pronged-billed Barbet, Ochraceous Wren, Mistletoe Tyrannulet, Tawny-capped Euphonia, Rufous Mourner, Black-faced Solitaire, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Black-bellied Hummingbird, Yellow-rumped Warbler, Red-headed Barbet, Slate-throated Redstart, White-ringed Flycatcher, Spangled-cheeked Tanager and Slaty-backed Nightingale-thrush.

At about 1000, Alberto picked us up and drove us to the top of the parque to an area set aside for pic-nicing and barbecues. We climbed the final 100 meters to the Mirador over this wonderful forest.

Time was running out as we walked a short distance down the hill hoping for a last minute Black-and-yellow Silky-flycatcher but we dipped.

After another excellent, but light, lunch we walked down the hill from the Lodge for several hundred yards before Alberto came along and picked us up. Yesterday in the rain we had seen virtually nothing on this road. Today, we saw a good number of species and we added Golden-bellied Flycatcher, Broad-winged Hawk and Pale-vented Pigeon.

1300 - 1800 Drive to La Quinta.

Then it was on the coach and full steam ahead for the La Quinta de Sarapiqui Lodge. Between the Kiri Lodge and San Jose, we traveled through some wonderful countryside where coffee was being harvested.

We made a stop at the Cachi Dam to see the 26 Montezuma Oropendola nests but also added Crimson-fronted Parakeet and Least Grebe.

San Jose was busy again and took some time to negotiate. An hour later, we were driving through the Braulio Carrillo National Park. For about another hour we had impenetrable forest on each side of the highway.

Then down on to the Caribbean lowlands and a very different landscape of habitat and agriculture.

Light was fading when we arrived at the La Quinta Lodge for a four-night stay in the Atlantic lowlands that has an annual rainfall of over 200 inches.

Nevertheless, in the failing light, a fruiting tree outside the reception area provided good birding, as did the feeders by the dining area. The star bird, and one of the most attractive birds seen, was the Golden-hooded Tanager. What a combination of colour and design. We also added Banded-backed Wren.

La Quinta de Sarapiqui Country Inn Tel/Fax: (506) 761 1052

The La Quinta Inn is a small, family-owned and operated inn, located in one of the richest areas of the country for bird watching. The Inn is located on a curve along the Sardinal River and has just 17 rooms in bungalows surrounded by a tropical garden rich in heliconias, gingers, orchids and flowering trees. Each room opens onto a shaded porch with chairs where you can enjoy the view of flowers and birds (almost 100 species identified

The diversity of the lowland's bird life is impressive. Sunbittern, oropendola, motmot, at least four species of trogons, umbrellabirds, fruit crows, jacamars, tinamous, stripe-breasted and black throated wrens are some of more than 400 species that have been recorded in this area (50% of the species of Costa Rica).

Rio Sarapiqu is one of the highlights of every birdwatcher's dream trip while in Costa Rica.

71 species today including 27 seen for the first time on the trip.

January 14 - La Quinta Lodge.

0530 - 0730 From the dining area. Good rain and to the bridge.

It had rained for much of the night, sometimes heavily, and was still raining when we gathered to watch the feeding stations to see the birds coming in for breakfast. A good number of species that we had already seen were recorded but the highlight was four Collared Aracari. Very remarkable birds with tomia serrations on the bill looking more like crocodile teeth.

In light rain we ventured out from undercover and by the bridge at the entrance to the Lodge we had good views of an Amazon Kingfisher. Murrelet then found the Buff-rumped Warbler that she had heard calling. As we started back for breakfast, we added Alder Flycatcher and Black-cheeked Woodpecker. Then great excitement when a truck pulling a 40 foot container became stuck on the fragile bridge. We had visions of being confined to the Lodge but the driver used brute force to scrape his truck clear.

More excitement when we saw a White-necked Jacobin followed by a Black-cowled Oriole close to the Lodge.

0900 - 1200 The road leading to the La Selva Organization for Tropical Studies Research Station.

The rain persisted but eased so a change of plan saw us on the coach to the beginning of the road leading to the La Selva Organization for Tropical Studies Research Station. Fortunately, we experienced only a couple of light showers along the road. Again, a number of species already seen were noted but we soon added American Redstart, Gray-rumped Swift and Fasciated Antshrike.

As we passed an area of reeds we could hear White-throated Crake but failed to see one. We were soon adding Long-tailed Tyrant, Thick-billed Seed-finch, Gray-capped Flycatcher, Blue Seedeater and Olive-backed Euphonia.

As we approached the gate to the research station, we had good views of Gray-chested Dove foraging on the ground and Tropical Peewee on the wire.

From the Research Centre we watched as four Toucans flew into a tree opposite and we were able to 'scope both Chestnut-mandibled and Keel-billed Toucans. Golden-hooded Tanagers again showed well in good numbers.

The prospects for tomorrow, when we were to spend a full day on the station, were looking very good.

During the break, I tried to phone home and a Slaty-tailed Trogon flew in to see what I was doing.

As I prepared for the rigors of birding the Lodge grounds at 1500, I sat on my verandah and watched and listened to the remarkable Montezuma Oropendola, voted the most entertaining bird of the trip. As it called, this large bird, bigger than our crow, tipped itself forward off its perch, cocked its bright yellow tail in the air and then regained its foothold.

1500 - 1800 The Grounds of La Quinta.

A most enjoyable walk that included a Giant Cowbird, four Collared Aracari and a Chestnut-mandibled Toucan all in one tree. As we passed the frog garden we saw the tiny red poison-dart frog.

20 new species today out of a total of 64.

January 15 - La Selva Organization for Tropical Studies Research Station.

An 0530 breakfast this morning in readiness for a full day at La Selva. Because of the size of the group, we had to have a La Selva guide. Some guides work for the Research Station and others are self-employed. Our guide was Yehudi Hernandez (. He had effectively been trained by La Selva and had now branched out on his own. He was very good and his optics, state of the art. The 3,700-acre station stands at the confluence of the Puerto Viejo and the Sarapiqui rivers. This Caribbean Lowland Rainforest habitat includes tropical wet forest, swamps, creeks, rivers, secondary regeneration forest and pastures and is one of the best birding locations in Costa Rica.

As we drove to meet Yehudi, we had great views of a Laughing Falcon perched at the side of the road.

We met Yehudi at 0630 on the road leading to the station. As we pulled up, we watched an Agouti foraging in leaves. On the other side of the track was a family of chickens, the mother poking among the leaves to find insects for her young. That is the closest we came to seeing a leaftosser!

0630 - 0900 Walk along a looped trail of secondary forest leading to the station entrance.

In the trees we saw Green Honeycreeper, Rufous-winged Woodpecker, Short-billed Pigeon, Scarlet-rumped Cacique, Grayish Saltator and Great Antshrike. Overhead flew Mealy Parrot.

We also had good views of Howler Monkeys and Two-toed Sloth.

0915 - 1145 Walk into the station in more secondary forest.

We gathered again after a short break and walked over the bridge into the reserve proper. In among the main buildings and the external experimental area we were thrilled to find a White-necked Puffbird.

Moving into the secondary forest we added Cinnamon Becard and the magnificent Crested Guan. Overhead, we watched a Double-toothed Kite.

More Howler Monkeys frequented the trees and a White Collared Peccary shared the path with us.

1330 - 1630 Walk in primary forest.

In describing our afternoon walk, our guide used the phrase "searching for birds" and said that we would see few birds but those we did see would be "good".

The experience of walking through the primary forest was wonderful. You had the feeling that man had still to walk just a few feet away from where you were walking. The forest was dense and hardly anything could be seen. Howler Monkeys and Spider monkeys made life easier for us by the noise and movement. The birds did not seem to understand our predicament though. Nevertheless, our guide did remarkably well when he spotted a Bare-necked Umbrellabird.

During this walk, we once more saw leaf-cutter ants. Even more remarkable however were the Bullet Ants. They were a good 2-3 centimeters long and so called because their bite feels just like a bullet wound. I hope that I experience neither.

1630 - 1700 Return to Research Station and coach.

As we returned to the visitor centre, over the bridge, another purple patch when in a matter of minutes we added Shining Honeycreeper, Black-faced Grosbeak, and Black-crested Cocquette.

Not surprisingly, another high-count day with 80 species seen, 16 being new.

January 16 - River Sarapiqui.

0600 - 0700 Early morning walk.

The early morning walk saw only the diehards venturing out at first light. Our plan was to walk the track leading from the bridge in the opposite direction to the Lodge. At the bridge, Bob, wisely, suggested that we looked from the bridge first. If he had not, we would probably have missed the Sunbittern that I picked out almost immediately. The bird was about 100 yards away making its way along the side of the river over boulders. The bird, at times, looking just like yet another boulder. It then flew across the river and proceeded to make its way closer and closer to the bridge to within 30 yards of us. Eventually, it took off and flew over our heads, at about 10 feet, before disappearing from view up-river. All of this had lasted about 25 minutes that also gave Murrelet time to get back to the Lodge to rouse the late risers and everyone had stunning views of this rare and beautiful bird

We were on a high as we returned for breakfast but the female White-collared Manakin on the fruiting tree soon added to the excitement.

0730 - 1200 Rio Sarapiqui.

After breakfast we took the coach at 0730 to the Rio Sarapiqui for a boat ride that was to last about two hours.

Imagine our delight in seeing a Snowy Cotinga waiting to greet us at the landing stage. This bird was later joined by a Long-tailed Tyrant. On the ground we saw another new, star, bird, the House Sparrow.

We first made our way upriver and it was not too long before the driver called a Bright-rumped Attila and then two Bare-throated Tiger-heron high in a tall tree. We later saw a third low at the side of the river.

Some of us also had a very brief look at an Orange-billed Sparrow as it dived for cover through the exposed roots of a tree by the riverbank. We had better views and not so good views of a Chestnut-headed Oropendola moving with some Montezuma Oropendola.

Turning, we made our way downstream. Yet another star bird came into view, King Vulture, and although everyone saw it, my sighting was very poor. However, I later had stunning views as the monarch passed directly overhead.

During the cruise we also saw Black River Turtle, Caiman, Crocodile, White-faced Capuchin Monkeys, Sack-winged Bats and a large number of Iguanas.

The river cruise by itself was a delight. The birds that we saw made the trip something special.

On our return to the landing stage, the Snowy Cotinga received virtually no attention! Then to the souvenir shop where Scarlet Macaw and Keel-billed Toucan featured on my purchases.

1500 - 1800 La Quinta.

The first highlight of the afternoon walk was again at the bridge where we once more watched as a huge Mack truck pulling a 40 foot container containing pineapples negotiated its way out.

Then back into the Lodge grounds and the first of several futile searches for the Spectacled Owls known to frequent the area. However, we did have amazing 'scope views of first a White-collared Manakin and then a fourth Bare-throated Tiger-heron.

The next port of call was the frog garden by the river and here we also found the White-eared Ground-sparrow. We continued round the lake but nothing new was added.

2000 - 2030 Searching for the Common Pauraque.

A short walk after dark produced the hoped for Common Paraque, found near where it had been heard calling very early that morning.

The Common Paraque was the 74^th species seen during the day and the 11^th new bird.

January 17 - To Heredia by way of Moravia.

0600 - 0730 Early morning walk.

A full contingent this morning as we searched, one last time, for the Spectacled Owl but to no avail. The White-collared Manakin and a Violaceous Trogon showed well though and provide some consolation. A Ringed Kingfisher at the bridge added to the list.

Through amazing 'scope views we bid farewell to eight Collared Aracari and four Red-lored Parrots as we returned for breakfast.

0900 - 1500 Virgen del Socorro, Hummingbird feeders and the Waterfall of Peace.

Leaving behind the excellent La Quinta Lodge, we climbed steadily into the mid-elevation Atlantic-slope heading for Virgen del Socorro. We stopped first at a large pond and added Pied-billed Grebe and had fantastic 'scope views of a Laughing Falcon.

At La Virgen del Socorro location a new dam is being built and construction work limited our birding here. We did have stunning views of the trip's second and my first White Hawk.

We moved on to the hummingbird feeder location in Cin Chero. The next, wonderful, hour and a half, was one magic moment after another. We saw eleven species of hummingbird adding Violet Sabrewing, Purple-throated Mountain-gem, Brown Violet-ear, Magenta-throated Woodstar and Coppery-headed Emerald. The highlight however was a most memorable courtship dance by a male Green Thorntail. All who witnessed the exhibitionism were mesmerised, charmed and thrilled. The female Thorntail seemed to like it too!

In the garden was a feeder table that attracted a great number of birds. In particular, a Red-headed Barbet was strutting and swaggering as if he knew very well what a grand fellow he looked. For me however, the star turn was an Emerald Toucannet, an amazing design once more and master of the feeding table while there.

The final stop was at the Cascade de Paz, the waterfall of peace. Here we saw another Torrent Tyrannulet but the hoped for American Dipper turned out to be our second, and my first, Northern Waterthrush. However, we did see a Great Black-hawk which more than compensated.

We arrived at the Casa que Canta just before 1500.

And then the last of the magic moments that lasted more than two hours. The plan was to go to a nice restaurant for our final evening together. In the event, a cousin of Alberto offered to cook us a meal and serve it at the Casa que Canta. In addition, Alberta suggested and then arranged for a Costa Rican "group" to entertain us. Three musicians played Costa Rican melodies on something like a xylophone. With the food and the wine, everyone had a very good time. A lovely end to the trip.

A good count again today, 79 species with no less than 11 birds for the first, and only, time.

January 18 Shopping and USA departures.

A pre-breakfast walk produced nothing new although it was very nice to see the Blue-crowned Motmot again.

The coach collected us at 0900 for a visit to some souvenir shops and then supermarkets for provisions for the last meal and goodies to take home.

January 19 - Homeward bound.

I was collected by taxi at 0900 and departed San Jose at 1155 bound for Miami where I arrived at 1535. It took almost two hours to get into the USA and check-in at the BA counter. I still had another three hours before my flight so I was able to see the end of one of the NFL play-offs and the start of the other. I departed on BA 208 on time at 2035 bound for Heathrow.

January 20 - The last lap.

I arrived at Heathrow on schedule at 1005 and was home, having a nice cup of tea by 1330.

Conclusion

This was a truly wonderful trip and experience. All the arrangements were first class. Alberto, Murrelet and Bob did everything in their power to make the trip the great success that it was. The other participants were most friendly and helpful. Their experience ranged from the novice to very very good.

By the end of the trip I had seen well 319 species, 206 of which were lifers. An additional 35 species were heard by me or seen by others. 102 species I saw just once, including the House Sparrow. 5 species were seen every day.